Bistro 1020

Mount Lookout square hosts new, contemporary eatery

JULIE FITZGERALD | CIN WEEKLY CORRESPONDENT

The Red Dragon Sushi roll from the Bistro 1020 in Mt. Lookout. (Photo by Leigh Patton/CiN Weekly)

JUST THE FACTS

WHAT: Bistro 1020

WHEN: Open 4 p.m. to midnight Sunday-Thursday, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday

WHERE: 1020 Delta Ave., Mount Lookout

PRICE: Entrees $14 to $24

PARKING: On-street parking available

CONTACT: (513) 871-2700

ETC.: Check out www.cincinnatitomorrow.com for info on how to get involved with After 5 Walks (weekly social gatherings that include a meal and arts events or bar-hopping. Anyone is welcome.)

PLATES TO TRY

• Sushi plates: Lookout Roll with tuna and avocado ($9)

• Small plates: Sweet corn with basil soup ($5)

• Big plates: Grilled salmon with apple salad ($18) or New York strip with Massaman curry sauce ($19)

• Bowls (not plates): Sautéed asparagus ($5)

• Sweet plates: Blueberry cheesecake ($5)

• Wine glass (OK, also not a plate): From the huge, international selection, try the sweet and fruity Chilean white ($7)

It's a Thursday evening, and Bistro 1020 is bustling. Opening on Mount Lookout square only two months ago (June 7), the place already has a good reputation with locals. Several tables are occupied by couples on dinner dates. A huge group of 30, from local organization Cincinnati Tomorrow, claims an entire section. Executive director of the group Barry Gee says Bistro 1020, located at 1020 Delta Ave., is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

"It's very hip, very cool. It's an excellent place to come and spend an evening - which is what we're doing," Gee says. "You can go to Lookout Joe's afterwards and (later) stop by Zip's for a beer - it's a great walking area."

For those not in the walking mood, watching the square from the large Bistro window will suffice. It's a nice place to soak up local atmosphere over seafood pasta and a glass of Australian red wne.

THE MENU

Bistro features a Thai-American "fusion" menu with plenty of sushi, seafood, steak and veget offerings. With simple yet succulent food, the one-page menu is divided by "plates": sushi plates, small plates (appetizers), big plates (entrees) and so on.

Each "plates" category contains several offerings (except dessert - there are only two sweet plates). And, server Izzy Cruz says you could build an entire meal of "small plates" and share.

Liking the idea of an entire "sampling" meal of small plates, I thought these selections would be ideal for two seafood lovers. Trying a few different items - such as baked baby clams ($7), salmon spring rolls ($7) and crispy shrimp salad ($9) - would allow you to enjoy several tastes in one evening.

SEA LOVERS' DELIGHT

If you love an unusual take on a salmon dish or sushi rolls, then you'll like the creative sauces and spices at Bistro 1020. The special for the evening, a thick cut of sea bass served in a salty sake/soy sauce ($19), was one delish fish dish.

Gee dined on Red Dragon rolls ($9) with spicy red tuna (served atop a California roll). He's been to Bistro three times since its opening and enjoys the sushi and tuna dishes. "The sushi is very fresh, and it's different," he says. "It's got kind of a pan-Asian flair to it."

GO VEGETARIAN

Whether you're vegetarian or not, try the "small plate" of sweet corn with basil soup. Though it's actually served in a bowl, this $5 appetizer is a warming taste of corn bread on a spoon. The taste is very unusual and represents superb bistro-style cooking.

If you are vegetarian, ask about modifying selections from "big plates." Most dishes and some sushi can be made sans meat or seafood (though none are listed on the menu). We tried the pinenut chicken with stir fried vegetables ($14), but we substituted tofu for the chicken, and we really liked it.

HOMEMADE DESSERT

Blueberry cheesecake with graham cracker crust ($5) is a house specialty. Enjoyed with a dessert wine, such as the vintage port ($7 a glass), it's a nice way to end the meal before heading out for a night on the square.