Xochimilco
(pronounced "So-she-milco")

A 'place of flowers' sprouts authentic cuisine in matching atmosphere

TABARI MCCOY | CIN WEEKLY

Delfino Barajas waits to be seated at Xochimilco Mexican restaurant in Colerain Township. (Photo by Leigh Patton/CiN Weekly)

JUST THE FACTS

WHAT: Xochimilco

WHEN: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday

WHERE: 3547 Springdale Road, Colerain Township

PARKING: Available in the restaurant's parking lot

CONTACT: (513) 923-2733

IN OR OUT: Dine-in or carryout (take-out is 25 cents extra)

RESERVATIONS: Available, but not usually necessary

According to the legend, Xochimilco is southeast of Mexico City, Mexico. The area consists of a series of canals separated from one another by small floating garden-style islands where Indians are said to have raised fruits, vegetables and some of the most exotic flowers in the world.

In contrast, Xochimilco the restaurant is northeast of Northgate Mall, in a section of Colerain Township consisting mainly of car dealerships, strip malls and assorted shops.

Inside the former steakhouse is a family-owned eatery unlike any other in the bustling blocks that surround it.

SU CASA

Decorated with a plethora of recognizable elements of Mexican heritage, Xochimilco manager Ramón Garcia, 26, says the former steakhouse likes to think of itself as a family-friendly eatery.

A vast collection of piñatas, sombreros and other fun-filled items adorns the walls, and there are splashes of red, green and yellow hues throughout the restaurant.

Wide open in its seating arrangement, Xochimilco features a full-service bar just to the left of the restaurant's main entrance, while two separate dining halls can be found off to the right and center.

Traditional Hispanic music is piped through the restaurant's speakers throughout the bar and the dining areas, further enhancing the authentic feel. Those accustomed to eating at chain Mexican restaurants should likely feel equally - if not more - comfortable at Xochimilco, as the small tables and booths combined with vast open space make maneuvering around easy.

GARDEN OF EATIN'

While some may need time to let their palettes adjust from the American fare Taco Bell offers to authentic Mexican cuisine, those looking for a bold experience will likely need to look no further.

A score of different entrees, combinations and platters may be had at Xochimilco - 41, in fact - not including vegetarian combinations and "American favorites" such as hot dogs and chicken sandwiches. Lunch adds another 19 choices to the menu, including a "Speedy Gonzalez" ($4 for one taco, one enchilada and choice of rice or beans).

Ranch enchiladas ($7.75) or a steak ranchero ($8.75) are safe bets for first-time visitors to Xochimilco, the latter featuring a generous 8-ounce rib eye slathered in spicy tomato hot sauce with rice, beans and tortillas. What's more, the dishes arrive at the table quickly.

Those looking for an equally sizzling experience may want to try an order of beef fajitas ($9 single, $18 for two). A healthy portion of beef, sautéed onions and bell peppers, guacamole and sour cream accompany the dish. (Those sensitive to jalapeno peppers may want to avoid the dish's pico de gallo, however, as one intrepid photographer discovered during a recent visit).

MARGARITAS 'N' MORE

Dessert is equally affordable, as Mexican standards such as deep fried ice cream ($2.50) and flan ($2) - a cream caramel dish similar to gelatin - are generous in portion and flavor.

Those looking for booze will be happy to know a number of draft and imported beers as well as mixed drinks are available; the most expensive is a 60-ounce daiquiri pitcher ($13.50).

Take-out orders are available for an extra 25 cents, which likely won't help you discern what to choose, since no single dish on Xochimilco's menu tops $10. Don't be fooled by the prices, however. The portions are more than filling, and what Xochimilco lacks in flair is more than made up for in service.

So to experience the restaurant in its true form, keep your change in your pockets, pull up a chair and look for the flowers.